[Clark, October 15, 1804]
15th of October - Rained all last night, passed a Ricara
hunting camp on the S.S. & halted at another on the L.S,
Several from the 1t Camp visited us and gave meat as also
those of the Camp we halted at, we gave them fish hooks Some
beeds &c. as we proceeded on we Saw a number of Indians on
both Sides all day, Saw L. S some Curious Nnobs high and
much the resemblance of a hiped rough house, we halted at a
Camp of 10 Lodges of Ricaras on the S. S., we visited thier
Lodges & were friendly recved by all- their women fond of
our men- &c.
[Clark, October 15, 1804]
15th of October Monday 1804 rained all last night, we Set
out early and proceeded on at 3 Miles passed an Ind. Camp on
the S. S. we halted above and about 30 of the Indians came
over in their Canoos of Skins, we eate with them, they give
us meat, in return we gave fishhooks & Some beeds, about a
mile higher we came too on the L. S. at a Camp of Ricres of
about 8 Lodges, we also eate & they gave Some meat, we
proceded on Saw numbers of Indians on both Sides passing a
Creek, Saw many Curious hills, high and much the resemblance
of a house with a hiped roof, at 12 oClock it Cleared away
and the evening was pleasent, wind from the N. E.- at Sunset
we arrived at a Camp of Ricares of 10 Lodges on the S. S. we
Came too and Camped near them Capt Lewis & my Self went with
the Chief who accompanis us, to the Huts of Several of the
men all of whome Smoked & gave us Something to eate also
Some meat to take away, those people were kind and appeared
to be much plsd. at the attentioned paid them.
Those people are much pleased with my black Servent- Their
womin verry fond of carressing our men. &.
[Clark, October 16, 1804]
16th of October Tuesday 1804 Some rain this morning 2 Squars
verry anxious to accompany us we Set out with our Chief on
Board by name Ar ke tar nar shar (or Chief of the Town) a
little above our Camp on the L. S. passed an old Shyenne
Village, which appears to have been Serounded with a wall of
earth; this is the retreat & first Stand of this nation
after being reduced by the Sioux and drove from their
Countrey on the heads of red River of L Winipic where they
Cultivated the landspassed a Creek I call So-harch or Girl
Creek L. S. 2 miles higher passed Woman Crreek or Char-parts
passed an Island Situated in a bend to the S. S. at the
lower point of this Island a Creek comes in Called Kee-tooth
Sar-kar-nar- or the place of Beaver above the Island a Small
River on the Same S. Side Called War-re-Con nee Elk shed
their horns, this river is 35 yards wide & heads near the
River au Jacque, Carp Island wind hard a head from the N W.
Saw great numbers of goats or Antelope on Shore, Capt Lewis
one man & the Ricara Chief walked on Shore, in the evening I
discovered a number of Indians on each Side and goats in the
river or Swiming & on Sand bars, when I came near Saw the
boys in the water Swiming amongst the goats & Killing them
with Sticks, and then hauling them to the Shore those on
Shore Kept them in the water, I saw 58 Killed in this way
and on the Shore, the hunter with Cap Lewis Shot 3 goats I
came too and Camped above the Ricara Camp on the L. S.
Several Indians visited us duereing the night Some with
meat, Sang and were merry all night.
[Clark, October 16, 1804]
16th October Tuesday 1804 Some rain this morning, 2 young
Squars verry anxious to accompany us, we Set out with our
Chief on board by name Ar ke tar na Shar or Chief of the
Town, a little above our Camp on the L. S. passed a Circular
work, where the, Shar ha (or Chien, or Dog Indians) formerly
lived, a Short distance abov passed a Creek which we Call
Chien Creek, above is a willow Island Situated near (i ) the
L. Side a large Sand bar above & on both Sides (2) passed a
Creek above the Island on the L. S. call So-harch (or Girls)
Creek, at 2 miles higher up (3) passed a Creek on L. S. call
Char part (or womins) Creek passed (5) an Island Situated in
a bend to the S. S. this Isd. is about 11/2 miles long,
Covered with timber Such as Cotton wood, opsd. the lower
point a creek coms in on the S. S. called by the Indians Kee
tooth Sar kar nar (or place of Beavr) above the Island a
Small river about 35 yards wide corns in Called War re con
ne or (Elk Shed their horns). The Island is Called Carp
Island by Ivens. wind hard from the N. W. Saw great numbers
of Goats on the Shore S. S. proceeded on Capt. Lewis & the
Indian Chief walked on Shore, Soon after I discovered Great
numbers of Goats in the river, and Indians on the Shore on
each Side, as I approached or got nearer I discovered boys
in the water Killing the Goats with Sticks and halling them
to Shore, Those on the banks Shot them with arrows and as
they approachd. the Shore would turn them back of this
Gangue of Goats I counted 58 of which they had killed & on
the Shore, one of our hunters out with Cap Lewis killed
three Goats, we passed the Camp on the S. S. and proceeded
1/2 mile and Camped on the L. S. many Indians came to the
boat to See, Some Came across late at night, as they
approach they hollowed and Sung, after Staying a Short time
2 went for Some meat, and returned in a Short time with
fresh & Dried Buffalow, also goat, those Indians Strayed all
night, They Sung and was verry merry the greater part of the
night
[Lewis, October 16, 1804]
October 16th This day took a small bird alive of the order
of the ____ or goat suckers. it appeared to be passing into
the dormant state. on the morning of the 18th the murcury
was at 30 above 0. the bird could scarcely move.- I run my
penknife into it's body under the wing and completely
distroyed it's lungs and heart- yet it lived upwards of two
hours this fanominon I could not account for unless it
proceeded from the want of circulation of the blood.- the
recarees call this bird to'-na it's note is at-tah-to'-nah';
at-tah'to'-nah'; to-nah, a nocturnal bird, sings only in the
night as does the whipperwill.- it's weights oz 17 Grains
Troy
[Clark, October 17, 1804]
17th of October 1804 Wind S. W. I walked on Shore with the
Ricara Chief and an Inteprieter, they told me maney
extroadenary Stories, I Killed 3 Dear & a Elk, the Chief
Killed a Deer and our hunters Killed 4 Deer, in my absenc
the wind rose So high that the Boat lay too all Day; Latd
46° 23' 57" N, I caught a Small uncommon whiperwill we
observe emence herds of Goats, or Antelopes flocking down
from the N E Side & Swiming the River, the Chief tels me
those animals winter in the Black Mountain, and in the fall
return to those mounts from every quarter, and in the Spring
disperse in the planes, those emence herds we See all of
which is on the N E Side of the River is on their way to the
mountain, and in the Spring they will be as noumeroes on
their return (some ganges winter on the Missouri)- camped on
the L. S.
note from the Ricares to the River Jacque near N. E. is
about 40 mes. to the Chien a fork of R Rogue 20 passing the
Souix River near the Chien this from information of Mr.
Graveline who passed through this Countrey
[Clark, October 17, 1804]
17th October Wednesday 1804. Set out early a fine morning
the wind from the N W. after brackfast I walked on Shore
with the Indian Chief & Interpeters, Saw Buffalow Elk and
Great numbers of Goats in large gangues (I am told by Mr. G.
that those Animals winter in the Black mountains and this is
about the Season they Cross from the East of the Missouris
to go to that Mountain, they return in the Spring and pass
the Missourie in Great numbers). This Chief tells me of a
number of their Treditions about Turtles, Snakes, &. and the
power of a perticiler rock or Cave on the next river which
informs of everr thing none of those I think worth while
mentioning- The wind So hard a head the boats Could not move
aftr 10 oClock, Capt Louis Took the altitude of the Sun
Laid. 46° 23' 57" I Killed 3 Deer and the hunters with me
killed 3 also the Indian Shot one but Could not get it- I
Scaffeled up the Deer & returned & met the boat after night
on the L. S. about 6 miles above the place we Camped last
night- one of the men Saw a number of Snakes, Capt Lewis Saw
a large Beaver house S. S. I Cought a Whipprwill Small & not
Common-. the leaves are falling fast-. the river wide and
full of Sand bars,-. Great numbers of verry large Stone on
the Sides of the hills & Some rock of a brownish Colour in
the Ld. Bend below this-.
Great numbers of Goats are flocking down to the S. Side of
the river on their way to the Black Mountains where they
winter those animals return in the Spring in the Same way &
Scatter in different directions.
[Clark, October 18, 1804]
18th of October 1804. at 6 miles passed the mouth of La
Bullet or Cannon Ball River on the L. Side about 140 yards
Wide, and heads near the Black Mountains above the mouth of
this River, in and at the foot of the Bluff, and in the
water is a number of round Stones, resembling Shells and
Cannon balls of Different Sises, and of excellent grit for
Grindstons- the Bluff continus for about a mile, The water
of this River is confined within 40 yards- we met 2 french
men in a Canoe, who informed us they wer trapping near the
mandans and were robed of 4 Traps, & part of their Skins and
Several other articles by Indians he took to be Mandans
those men return with us, Saw emence numbers of Goats all
Day S. S. our hunters Kill Sevral passed a large Creek
Called Che wah or fish Creek on the S. S. 28 yds. wide,
passed a Small Creek at 2 m on the L. S. Camped on the L. S.
Saw a no of Buffalow, & in one gangue 248 Elk our hunters
Killed 6 Deer & 4 Elk this evening, The Countrey is leavel
and fine Some high Short hills, and ridges at a Distance,
Bottoms fine and Partially timbered with Cotton wood
principally Some ash & Elm.
[Clark, October 18, 1804]
18th of October Thursday 1804 Set out early proceeded on at
6 mes. passed the mouth of (1) la Boulet (or Cannon Ball
River) about 140 yards wide on the L. S. this river heads in
the Court not or Black mountains) (a fine Day) above the
mouth of this river Great numbers of Stone perfectly round
with fine Grit are in the Bluff and on the Shore, the river
takes its name from those Stones which resemble Cannon
Balls.- The water of this river is Confined within 40 yards.
We met 2 french men in a perogue Desending from hunting, &
complained of the Mandans robing them of 4 Traps ther fur &
Seeveral othr articles Those men were in the imploy of our
Ricaree interpeter Mr. Gravelin they turned & followered us.
Saw Great numbers of Goats on the S. S. Comeing to the river
our hunters Killed 4 of them Some run back and others
crossed & prosceed on their journey to the Court Noir, at
(3) passed a Small River Called Che wah or fish river on the
S. S. this river is about 28 yards wide and heads to the N.
E, passed a Small creek on the L. S. 1 mile abov the last,
and Camped on a Sand bar on the L. S. opposit to us we Saw a
Gangue of Buffalow bulls which we did not think worth while
to kill-our hunters Killd. 4 Goats 6 Deer 4 Elk & a pelican
& informs that they Saw in one Gang 248 Elk, (I walked on
Shore, in the evining with a view to See Some of those
remarkable places mentioned by evens, none of which I could
find,) The Countrey in this quarter is Generally leavel &
fine Some high Short hills, and some ragid ranges of Hills
at a Distans
The ricara Indians inform us that they find no black tail
Deer as high up as this place, those we find are of the
fallow Deer Kind
The Ricareis are not fond of Spiritous liquers, nor do they
apper to be fond of receiveing any or thank full for it
[Clark, October 19, 1804]
19th of October Friday 1804. Set out early under a gentle
Breeze from the S. E. more timber than Common in the bottoms
passed a large Pond on the S. S. I walked out on the high
land L. Side and observed great numbers of Buffalows, I
counted in view at one time 52 gangues of Buffalow & 3 of
Elk, besides Deer & goats &c. all the Streems falling from
the hills or high lands So brackish that the water Can't be
Drank without effecting the person making use of it as
Globesalts-, I saw in my walk Several remarkable high
Conocal hills, one 90 feet, one 60 and others Smaller-the
Indian Chief Say that the Callemet Bird live in the hollows
of those hills, which holes are made by the water passing
from the top & &. I also Saw an old Village fortified
Situated on the top of a high Point, which the Ricarra Chief
tels me were Mandans, we Camped on the L. S. I Killed a Deer
& Saw Swans &c. our hunters Killed 4 Elk and 6 Deer to Day
[Clark, October 19, 1804]
19th October Friday 1804 a fine morning wind from the S. E.
we Set out early under a gentle Breeze and proceeded on
verry well, more timber than Common on the banks on this
part of the river- passed a large Pond on the S. S.- I
walked out on the Hills & observed Great numbers of Buffalow
feedeing on both Sides of the river I counted 52 Gangues of
Buffalow & 3 of Elk at one view, all the runs which come
from the high hills which is Generally about one or 2 miles
from the water is brackish and near the Hills (the Salts
are) and the Sides of the Hills & edges of the Streems, the
mineral salts appear I saw Som remarkable round hills
forming a Cone at top one about 90 foot one 60 & Several
others Smaller, the Indian Chief Say that the Callemet bird
live in the holes of those hills, the holes form by the
water washing thro Some parts in its passage Down from the
top- near one of those noles, on a point of a hill 90 feet
above the lower plane I observed the remains of an old
village, which had been fortified, the Indian Chief with us
tels me, a party of Mandins lived there, Here first saw
ruins of Mandan nation we proceeded on & Camped on the L. S.
opposit the upper of those Conocal hills our hunters killed
4 Elk 6 Deer & a pelican, I saw Swans in a Pond & Killed a
fat Deer in my walk, Saw above 10 wolves. This day is
pleasent
[Clark, October 20, 1804]
20th of October 1804 wind from the S E, I walked out to view
those remarkable places pointed out by Evens, and continud
all day Saw an old Village of the Mandans below the Chess
chi ter R. appear to have been fortified above the village
on the Same L. S. is a coal bank where we Campd. passed a
Small Creek on the S. S. and an Island on the L. S Covered
with willows Small Cotton the Countrey thro which I passed
this day is Delightfull, Timber in the bottoms, Saw great
nos. of Buffalow Elk Goats & Deer as we were in want of them
I Killed 3 Deer, our hunters 10 Deer and wounded a white
Bear, I Saw Several fresh tracks of that animal double the
Sise of the largest track I ever Saw, great numbers of
wolves, those animals follow the buffalow and devour, those
that die or are Killed, and those too fat or pore to Keep up
with the gangue
[Clark, October 20, 1804]
20th of October Satterday 1804 Set out early this morning
and proceeded on the wind from the S. E after brackfast I
walked out on the L. Side to See those remarkable places
pointed out by Evins, I saw an old remains of a villige on
the Side of a hill which the Chief with us Too ne tels me
that nation lived in a number villages on each Side of the
river and the Troubleson Seauex caused them to move about 40
miles higher up where they remained a fiew years & moved to
the place they now live, (2) passed a Small Creek on the S.
S. (3) and one on the L. S. passed (4) a Island Covered with
willows laying in the middle of the river no current on the
L. S. Camped on the L. S. above a Bluff containing Coal (5)
of an inferior quallity, this bank is imedeately above the
old village of the Mandans-The Countrey is fine, the high
hills at a Distanc with gradual assents, I Kild 3 Deer The
Timber Confined to the bottoms as usial which is much larger
than below. Great numbers of Buffalow Elk & Deer, Goats. our
hunters killed 10 Deer & a Goat to day and wounded a white
Bear I saw Several fresh track of those animals which is 3
times as large as a mans track-, The wind hard all Day from
the N. E. & East, great numbers of buffalow Swiming the
river
I observe near all large gangues of buffalow wolves and when
the buffalow move those Anamals follow and feed on those
that are killed by accident or those that are too pore or
fat to Keep up with the gangue.
[Lewis, October 20, 1804]
20th October Peter Crusat this day shot at a white bear he
wounded him, but being alarmed at the formidable appearance
of the bear he left his tomahalk and gun; but shortly after
returned and found that the bear had taken the oposite
rout.- soon after he shot a buffaloe cow broke her thy, the
cow pursued him he concealed himself in a small raviene.-
[Clark, October 21, 1804]
21t of October Sunday 1804 a verry Cold night wind hard from
the N. E. Some rain in the night which feesed as it fell, at
Day began to Snow and Continued all the fore part of the
day, at 1/4 of a mile passed the Mouth of Chess-che tar (or
Heart) River L. S. 38 yards wide, this river heads near
Turtle mountain with Knife River on this River is a Smothe
Stone which the Indians have great fath in & Consult the
Stone on all great occasions which they Say Marks or
Simblems are left on the Stone of what is to take place &c.
an old mandan Village above the mouth of this Little River,
I saw a Single tree in the open Plains which the Mandans
formerly paid great Devotion to run Cords thro their flesh &
tie themselves to the tree to make them brave, passed an old
Village on a Small run on the S S. one on the bank L. and
Camped, I Killed a fat Buffalow this evening- Little gun all
my hunting
[Clark, October 21, 1804]
21st October Sunday 1804 a verry Cold night wind hard from
the N. E Some rain in the night which frosed up it fell at
Day light it began to Snow and Continud all the fore part of
the Day passed just above our Camp (1) a Small river on the
L. S. Called by the Indians Chiss-Cho-tar this river is
about 38 yards wide Containing a good Deel of water Some
Distance up this River is Situated a Stone which the Indians
have great fath in & Say they See painted on the Stone, "all
the Calemites & good fortune to hapin the nation & partes
who visit it"- a tree (an oak) which Stands alone near this
place about 2 miles off in the open prarie which has with
Stood the fire they pay Great respect to, make Holes and tie
Strings thro the Skins of their necks and around this tree
to make them brave (all this is the information of Too ne is
a whipper will) the Chief of the Ricares who accompanied us
to the Mandins, at 2 miles (2) passed the 2nd Villages of
the Manden, which was in existance at the Same time with the
1st this village is at the foot of a hill on the S. S. on a
butifull &extensive plain - at this time Covered with
Buffalow- a Cloudy afternoon, I killed a fine Buffalow, we
Camped on the L. S. verry Cold ground Covered with Snow. one
orter KIM.
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The Journals of Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806